Stingrays on Whitehaven Beach (D31)

We've had sharks and leeches and ticks and snakes and stingers. How about stingrays? They hardly ever kill people, only if you stand on them or corner them. More people die from vending machine accidents. I wonder why they are taken as the international standard for dangerous things. That's what Glen reckons anyway. He should know as he is in charge today. I'm off to Whitehaven on a fast boat. It's the type with rubber sides and sticks it's nose in the air when it goes fast. Brilliant.

There are sharks of course (!), but they won't bother us. 'They're more scared of you' he asserts, then adds 'probably'.

Glen counts up. Twenty one on board. 'But you're all going to have to wear stinger suits, cos they're out today' says Shane the second in command. Both men in charge are young, weather beaten, good old Aussie chaps who like the outdoor life, and no doubt barbies and beers. But right now they've got to be serious. 'By law I need to know that you've heard this, so on me for five minutes please'. The Japanese girls stop giggling and sit up straight. We go through the safety routines. 'Have any of yous ever beeing stung?' he asks in proper Aussie. 'Yes, a bottle of beer cost me $8.50, last night' I think to myself. Not the time to joke, and I'd have to explain anyway. A sting can be pretty nasty, and he explains. It sounds like it induces a panic feeling. 'Don't worry, this baby can get us to a hospital in half an hour' he pats his boat. 'You ready to go? he asks rhetorically. 'Yeah' we reply limply. We try it again. 'OK let's make this baby work'. Away we go, nose in the air. 'She's unsinkable' shouts Shane, 'but you're not so all sit down and enjoy the ride.

There are some French and Americans. Mostly they are groups of girls in their twenties on a day trip with friends and out to have fun. Some couples who are holding on to each other silently. There is a family who are from England but have settled in Australia. They have remnants of a Cumbrian accent. I wonder if they think we're going to our Whitehaven. I'm sure they're not, the other is a dump, or it was when I worked there. They are particularly keen to point out how much better the weather is in Australia.

This Whitehaven is like Heaven itself, it is a paradise island. The sand is pure off-white, and 'pure silica quartz' says Shane once we've landed and climbed the hill for a view. Everyone has their picture taken against the swirling backdrop of blue and white. The silica is from an underwater volcano which erupts every million years just there, he points to a patch of deeper blue, beyond a sandy bar.

Back down for lunch on the boat or beach which ever we prefer. Glen is serious again. 'Do Not Leiave eni lidda or food on the beich'. Then into our stinger suits and in the water to cool down. We can go for a walk to look out for stingrays and sharks if we like.

I set off expecting others to follow, but they go their own way. Never mind. After a while I spot a bark shadow ahead. Stay calm, remember what they said and they wouldn't let us our here if it was dangerous. It gets close. Phew, it's a stingray. Suddenly it turns and starts wafting it's way directly towards me. Well I know what they said, but I also know some famous Aussie explorer trod on one and was killed. Probably best if I leave now. No point swimming, so I wade. With the water at my knees it's heavy going, and as I speed up probably rather funny. I'm not laughing though, as it gets closer, and I get more frantic. Maybe I've been stung by a stinger. Stick to the herd I think to myself. I now know what a wounded zebra feels like. It gets closer. Heart beats faster. 'Go away' I actually say out loud. And it turned and went away.

I look round to see if anyone was watching and pretend to mess about in the water as if I was just having fun all along. I think I'll join the rest now.

When I get back to the rest Glen is skipping along the water, rather like I was, and pointing at something. 'Come on guys, follow me. There's a shark.' People look up but only the boys move. This goes on for a bit and then they stop. It got away. I expect it was frightened.

Back on the beach you can see indentations in the sand where the stingrays had been lying in shallow water. I've never been happy with the expression 'bottom feeder', but I suppose that's what they are.

One bloke is wanting to go off and explore. His girlfriend doesn't want him to. He's training to be a PE teacher we found out earlier and they are engaged. They are arguing in that discrete way long standing partners do. He sets off anyway and she looks huffy. 'Let him go, he'll be back soon enough and you are going to spent the rest of your life together' I want to tell her, 'or you will if you let him do his thing, not if you stifle him to death'. Why do people do that?

Next we go the a small bay and we have the best snorkeling I've ever had anywhere. The colours of coral and fish beat even the Barrier reef experience. Fantastic. Then another not so good bay. Others see a turtle, but not me. I pretend I saw one, of course. My only disappointment of the day. Then back to base An early tea and early night. One of the best days so far 9 out of 10.