Tuesday, 17 November 2009

The Shoal Bay Experience (D8)



North of Sydney runs the Pacific Highway and after about two hours you get to Shoal Bay.

The road is long and straight as you'd expect, but otherwise you could be in England. Driving is on the left,. The traffic is moderately heavy, but tolerable. The makes of car are similar, if a little older than in the UK. It's not a motorway as we'd know it. More like the A1 on a weekday afternoon.

I alternated cars, first Marilyn then Vivianne. Stuck in a car, on your own, with inquisitive female cousins you haven't seen for several decades means that travelling in silence is not an option. I've already talked a lot to Marilyn and now it's Viv's turn. They aren't too concerned about specific achievement except to acknowledge that in our family status is determined by achievement. No, they want to know about relationships. Who what when where and why. It's a two way thing., and it's great. The consequences of our exodus from Mauritius and the divorce and remarriage of my uncle are still powerfully with us.

The shoal bay holiday resort is a splendid, if aging, complex with elements of art deco and tiredness. It looks like it was built in the fifties and hasn't quite kept up. My room is spacious, comfortable, clean and self-catering. A walk through the car park and you're right there in reception. Across the road and you're on the beach.

The bay makes me think of Mauritius. A long curved sandy strip slides gently under the softly lapping waves. The horizon is surprisingly close. Above the shoreline, trees parade along the surrounding road. Shoal bay is quiet. Very few cars.

The cafe attached to the complex has a few Aussies of a certain age having an afternoon drink. In the distance some incongruously smartly dressed teenagers are chattering and laughing. Apparently they've gathered for their High School Formal - I think that's the same as a Prom - and on their way to Newcastle for the evening.

After a walk along the beach we went for spa-jacuzzi thing, then dinner. Two inquisitive female cousins meant that none of this was done in silence. I love them both more than I ever knew.

After dinner we thanked the young looking manageress and said how lovely it is here. ' Can't stand it' she surprised us, 'it's like living in home-and-away, everyone knows your business. I've lived here all my life and I can't fart without everyone knowing', her think Aussie accent giving it extra resonance. 'At least I know if my boys have bunked off school before they even get home.'

Back to the girls room for coffee. Inquisitiveness cranks up a notch. What a great experience. I think it's time for bed.

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