Le Sega (D17)

Time for a little Mauritian experience, courtesy of Viviane. First, you need to know that Creole refers to the language and to mixed race people from various backgrounds. We are Creole.

Dinner today was prepared to the sound of Sega. U-tube 'Mauritian sega' to hear some. It is Mauritian music, it is Creole music. One of it's greatest exponents was Jean Alphonse Ravaton, alias Ti Frere. Born April 29th, 1900, he became know as the King of Sega. Well that's what his fans call him. Sega was frowned upon and even forbidden, at first, for being music associated with the African Creoles, descendants of African slaves, now known as 'Nation' [pron. nacion]. Versions of Sega can be found on the islands of Madagascar, Reunion, Rodrigues and the Seychelles.

The slaves would gather at night fall, after working in the sugar plantations and tell stories. They would make up "sirandanes" (Creole riddles) and sing about the joys and woes of life, dancing to their African rhythms. Ancient sega also had magical and sacred functions, which being non Christian, was another reason for it's disapproval. I think I remember it being talked of as the music of Voodoo, Devil music. Certainly it was the music of the 'basse classe'. How wrong can you be? Le Sega also helped people remember, commemorate and grieve. The "Death Sega", for example, accompanied funeral rites. Eight days after someone died, a sega whould be organised to finally usher away the spirit of the deceased to the after life. You wouldn't want that spirit hanging around on this side, would you? Sadly, the ritualised role of le sega is largely a thing of the past. Le sega is now party dance music, rhythmical, sexy and played at night after dark.

One memorable occasion on October 30th 1964, four years away from independence, the famous "Night Of the Sega" was held on Mt. Le Morne. Le Morne was where slaves would go to escape captivity. It is a high point on the South West corner of the island. Many met their deaths here. On this occasion Creoles wanted to assert their Afro-Mauritian identity. The African-Creole community, was seen as low class (basse classe), uneducated and primitive compared to the Indian, Muslim, European, Chinese and other Creole groups they were living along side. The Sega was their medium for doing this. That night was the night Ti Frere was crowned "Roi du Sega". I can remember being taken indoors on one occasion, having been terrified by a procession of people snaking it's way through the lanes playing this music, singing and dancing. It all seemed very sinister to a small child. I wonder if this was that occasion.

For dinner Viv made a curry Gros Pois (Lima Beans) and Dohl Purri. Very typical Mauritian food. I'm going to make some when I get back. Dohl Purri is a flat bread rather like a chapati but made with white flour and yellow lentils. The curry Gros Pois is placed inside the Dohl Purri and eaten like a wrap. Desert is tinned Jack fruit. I always thought the Dohl Purri referred to a lentil mixture, no wonder I've never been able to recreate it yet.

I can tell you want to visit yourselves now. So, here's some useful Mauritian creole expressions I've picked up from Viv, in case you need them:

La tete pas bon - you're not right in the head
To fou - You're crazy. or, 'you want to be my friend, are you crazy?', ...'to fou?'
Allez do [doh] - you're kidding, get away with you, no way
Qui to le [lais]- what do you want (said abruptly)
A la la - here we go, oh my goodness
Ah i o [a yo] - oh dear

There are others of course which can't be published. Anyway you get a sense perhaps of our conversations. Don't you just love her?